Felipe Smid: "Catalan wines do not imitate other regions and stand out for unique traits"

What have the tariff barriers been until now?

Before the Mercosur agreement, a European wine faced a 27% tariff to enter Brazil. By comparison, under the Mercosur + Chile agreement the tariff is 0%, which explains why Brazil currently imports more wine from Chile.

But the barrier is not only tariffs. The whole distribution process generates successive taxes that can push the final cost up by almost 50%. This includes label registration with MAPA, ANVISA analyses, customs processing, importer margins, commissions and retail margins. A €2 wine can end up costing the Brazilian consumer between €12 and €14.

Is Catalonia a brand in its own right in Brazil, or is it tied to Spain?

Technically and legally, Catalan wines are Spanish wines. But in practice and in marketing, Catalonia increasingly operates as a brand in its own right. Clear examples are Priorat and Corpinnat, comparable to Champagne or the Rhône in France in terms of brand recognition and identity.

What is the profile of the Brazilian consumer of Catalan wine? Is there awareness of the Catalan DOs, or a favourite Catalan DO among consumers?

There are three main profiles. The cava consumer, upper-middle class, seeking reassurance and status, with brands such as Freixenet and Codorniu. Then wine lovers and experienced consumers, upper class, drawn to Priorat icons and preferring powerful, well-known wines. The third is the trend explorer, curious, food-loving, interested in DOs such as Penedès and Montsant, and frequenting wine bars in São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro.

Which quality of Catalan wines is most valued?

It depends on the market segment. For the general public, what matters is good value for money. For wine lovers, the narrative, with terroir and history. For modern-market consumers, sustainability, as a “cool” factor.

Where is most wine consumed?

Consumption is mainly at home. The pandemic consolidated the habit of drinking wine at home, reinforced by advanced e-commerce and the “gourmetisation” of eating in. Restaurants remain important for the guided experience and food pairing, while wine bars offer an informal setting, with wine by the glass and socialising.

If you plan to enter this market, you have to understand that in Brazil wine has become a drink for relaxing on the sofa and is no longer an “occasion” drink.

Why do sparkling wines lead Catalan wine imports?

Cava leads growth in Brazil for four reasons: accessible traditional method, the strength of the big brands, suitability for the Brazilian palate and climate, and versatility of styles from dry to sweet. All of this drives the Catalan wine economy in the country.

Is there room for Catalan red wines?

Distinctiveness is key. Catalan wines do not imitate other regions and stand out for unique traits, such as the saline minerality of xarel·lo whites, or the mineral power over slate (llicorella) of Priorat reds. 

Among others, cava is highly valued for its price/quality ratio, Priorat wines for their power and prestige, and Corpinnat and natural wines for their ethics and authenticity.